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Mazandaran Province  pronunciation (help·info), (Persian: استان مازندران‎‎ Ostān-e Māzandarān), is an Iranian province located along the southern coast of the Caspian Sea and in the adjacent CentralAlborz mountain range, in central-northern Iran.^[4]

Introduction

Mazandaran Province is one of the most densely populated provinces in Iran^[5] and has diverse natural resources, notably large reservoirs of oil and natural gas.^[6] The province's four largest counties are Sari, Amol, Nur, and Tonekabon .^[7] Founded as a province in 1937, Mazandaran was declared the second modern province after neighbouring Gilan.

The diverse nature of the province features plains, prairies, forests and rainforest ^[8] stretching from the sandy beaches of the Caspian Sea to the rugged and snowcapped Alborz sierra,^[9] including Mount Damavand, one of the highest peaks and volcanos in Asia,^[10] which at the narrowest point (Nowshahr County) narrows to 5 miles.

Mazandaran is a major producer of farmed fish,^[11] and aquaculture provides an important economic addition to traditional dominance of agriculture.^[12] Another important contributor to the economy is the tourism industry, as people from all of Iran enjoy visiting the area.^[13] Mazandaran is also a fast-growing centre for biotechnology^[6] and civil engineering.

Administrative divisions

The province covers an area of 23,842 km².^[14] According to the census of 2006, the population of the province was 2,922,432 of which 53.18% were urban dwellers, 46.82% villagers, and remaining were non-residents.^{[citation needed]} Sari is the capital city of the province.

Mazandaran is divided into 15 counties (shahrestan in Persian). All the shahrestans are named after their administrative center, except Savadkooh.

Caspian Sea

Ramsar

Tonekabon

Chaloos

Noshahr

Noor

Mahmood Abad

Amol

Babolsar

Babol

Qaemshahr

Jooybar

Savadkooh

Sary

Neka

Behshahr

Semnan

Tehran

Gilan

Golestan

Qazvin

History

Human habitation in the area dates back at least 75,000 years.^[15] Recent excavations in Goher Tippe provide proof that the area has been urbanized for more than 5,000 years, and the area is considered one of the most important historical sites of Iran.^[16] It has played an important role in cultural and urban development of the region.^[17]

Indigenous peoples of the region include the ethnic Mazanderanis,^[18] who speak an Iranian language which most closely resembles Gilaki and Sangiseri language, but also has phono-typical similarities to several Caucasian languages, reflecting the history of the region and its peoples.

In the early 20th century, Reza Shah connected northern Elbourz to the southern slopes by constructing seven new roads and railways, the provinces of Mazandaran and Gilan became known as Shomal by all Iranians (meaning "the North" in Persian). Mazandaran is a Caspian province in the north of Iran.^[19] Located on the southern coast of the Caspian Sea, it is bordered clockwise by Russia (across the sea), Golestan, Semnan, Tehran, Alborz, Qazvin, and Gilan provinces. Sari is the largest city and the capital of Mazandaran province.

Mazandaran Province was made part of the First Region upon the division of the provinces into five regions solely for coordination and development purposes on June 22, 2014.^[1]

History

Part of a series on
History of Tabaristan
Ancient periods paces Hotu and Kamarband Cave Gomeyshan Cave Gohar Tepe
Ancient period Amard Tapur Derbices
Sasani Houses Gashnasp House of Sukhra House of Ispahbudhan House of Karen House of Mihran
Sasani period Karinids Bavand dynasty Masmughans of Damavand Dabuyids Paduspanids
Shi'a period Alids Asfar ibn Shiruya Ziyarid dynasty Buyid dynasty Afrasiyab dynasty Jalalid dynasty Ismaili state Sarbadars Marashis Mortezayis Ruzafzun
Modern period Association Of Tabaristan Pahlavi dynasty Mazandaran province Of Islamic Republic
Tabaristan Portal WikiProject Tabaristan

Pre-Islamic history

Before the arrival of the Iranian-speakers to Iran, native people of this area were subsistence hunters and cattle herders. Archaeological studies in caves belt and Hutu man in Behshahr in the Mazandaran date to approximately 9500 BC. Aryan migration from the north-eastern borders of modern Iran began around the third millennium BC, mixed with the natives. Amardids were a tribe living along the mountainous region bordering the Caspian Sea, including current day Amol, The Aryan people and Scythian tribes before the arrival of the next group, the Aryans, Medes, Persians, and Parthians lived in a part of the current Caspian. The region is known to have been populated from early antiquity, and Mazandaran has changed hands among various dynasties from early in its history. There are several fortresses remaining from Parthian and Sassanid times, and many older cemeteries scattered throughout the province. During this era, Mazandaran was part of Hyrcania Province which was one of the important provinces.^{[citation needed]}

With the advent of the Sassanid dynasty, the King of Mazandaran (Tabaristan and Padashkhwargar) was Gushnasp,^[20] whose ancestors had reigned in the area (under the Parthian empire) since the time of Alexander. In 529–536, Mazandarn was ruled by the Sassanid prince Kawus, son of Kawadh.^[20] Anushirawan, the Sassanid king, defeated Zarmihr, who claimed his ancestry from the legendary blacksmith Kaveh.^[20] This dynasty ruled till 645 A.D., when Gil Gilanshah (a descendant of the Sassanid king Jamasp and a son of Piruz) joined Mazandaran to Gilan.^[20] These families had descendants who ruled during the Islamic period.

Now called Mazanderan, comprehends the largest and widest portion of the low plain along the shores of the Caspian Sea. It is one of the most fertile provinces of the Persian empire, whether the mountains or the plains are considered. Travellers passing through the forests of Mazandaran pass through thickets of sweetbriar and honeysuckle; and are surrounded with acacias, oaks, lindens, and chestnut trees. The summits of the mountains are crowned with cedars, cypresses, and various species of pines. So beautiful is this district, that in the hyperbolical language of the orientals it is styled, Belad-al-Irem, or, the Land of the Terrestrial Paradise. Sir W. Ouseley relates, that Kaikus, the Persian king, was fired with ambition to conquer so fine a country, through the influence of a minstrel, who exhausted all his powers of music and poetry in the praise of its beauties: his strains read thus:

"Let the king consider the delights of Mazanderan, and may that country flourish during all eternity; for in its gardens roses ever blow, and even its mountains are covered with hyacinths and tulips. Its land abounds in all the beauties of nature; its climate is salubrious and temperate, neither too warm nor too cold; it is a region of perpetual spring: there, in shady bowers, the nightingale ever sings; there the fawn and antelope incessantly wander among the valleys; every spot, throughout the whole year, is embellished and perfumed with flowers; the very brooks of that country seem to be rivulets of rose water, so much does this exquisite fragrance delight the soul. During the winter months, as at all other seasons, the ground is enamelled, and the banks of murmuring streams smile with variegated flowers; everywhere the pleasures of the chase may be enjoyed; all places abound with money, fine stuffs for garments, and every other article necessary for comfort or luxury. There all the attendants are lovely damsels, wearing golden coronets; and all the men illustrious warriors, whose girdles are studded with gold; and nothing but a wilful perversity of mind, or corporeal infirmity, can hinder a person from being cheerful and happy in Mazanderan."

Such were the delights the oriental poet held out to his rulers in Mazanderan, in all the force of oriental exaggeration. The province of Mazanderan was doubtless a delightful province; but there appear to have been some drawbacks upon its loveliness. Sir W. Ouseley states that on entering Mazanderan, he was informed that he would find a babr, tiger; a guraz, boar; rubah, foxes; shegkal, jackals; and a gurg, or wolf. Accordingly, the very first thing that he saw, on entering a village of Hyrcania, was the carcase of a, large wolf, which had been shofjust half an hour before his arrival, and which looked terrible in death, "grinning horribly a ghastly grin;" thus proving the truth of the poet, that, "every where the pleasures of the chase may be enjoyed," if such may be termed pleasures. In ancient times, Hyrcania was infested with panthers and tigers, so fierce and cruel, as to give rise to a proverb concerning fierce and unrelenting men, that they had sucked Caspian tigers. The poet Virgil refers to this in his Aeneid. Representing Dido chiding iEneas, he puts into her mouth these words:

"False as thou art, and more than false, forsworn, Not sprung from noble blood, nor goddess born, But hewn from harden'd entrails of a rock! And rough Caspian tigers gave thee suck!"

Strabo, who extends Hyrcania as far north as the river Ochus, says from Aristobulus that was a woody region, producing oaks and pines, but not the pitch pine, which abounded in India. It has been mentioned as a curious circumstance, that in Mazanderan an axe used for cutting is called tabr. Now the Tapyri, or Tabari, inhabited a district in Hyrcania, and if this name be derived from tabr, an axe, it will signify hatchet-men, or wood-cutters, a name very appropriate to the inhabitants of a country covered with forests like Mazanderan and, though restricted by the Greeks to the western inhabitants of that province, is equally applicable to those of the eastern part. According to Sir W. Ouseley, the name of the part in which the Tabari. lived, namely, Tabristan, or Tabaristan, signifies the country of wood.

According to Morier, Mazanderan is a modern Persian phrase, signifying, "Within the boundary or limit of the mountain." This is confirmed by Sir W. Ouseley, who says, from Hamdallah, an eminent Persian geographer, that Mazanderan was originally named Mawz-anderan, or within the mountain Mawz. He says, " The Coh-Alburz is an immense mountain adjacent to Bab-al-abwab, (Derbend), and many mountains are connected with Alburz; so that from Turkestan to Hejas, it forms a range extending in length 1000 farsangs, about 130 miles, more or less; and on this account some regard it as the mountain of Kaf, (Caucasus.) Its western side, connected with the mountains of Gurjestan, (Georgia,) is called the Coh Lagzi, (Daghestan,) and the Sur a lakaeim relates, that in the Coh Lagzi there are various races of people; so that about seventy different languages or dialects are used among them; and in that mountain are many wonderful objects; and when it reaches Shemshat and Malatiah, (Samosata Melitene,) it is called Kali Kala. At Antakia and Sakeliah, (Antioch and Seleucia,) it is called Lekam; there it divides Sham (Syria) from Room, (Asia Minor.) When it reaches between Hems (Emesa) and Demishk, (Damascus,) it is called Lebnan, (Lebanon,) and near Mecca and Medina it is called Arish. Its eastern side, connected with the mountains of Arran (Eastern Armenia) and Aderbijan, it is called Keik, and when it reaches to Ghilan, (the Gelae and Cadusians,) and Iraq, (Media,) it takes the name of Terkel-diz-cuh; it is called Mauz when it reaches Kurnish and Mazanderan; and originally Mazanderan was named Mawz-enderan; and when Alburz reaches Khorassan, it is called Lurry."

Unlike the rest of Persia, Mazanderan is watered by numerous rivers, or mountain torrents, all running from the mountains to the sea. The German traveller Gmelin, who visited this country a. d. 1771, says that in the space of eight miles, on the road from Resht to Amot, 250 of such streams are to be seen, many of them being so exceedingly broad and deep, that the passage across is sometimes impracticable for weeks together. In this respect Mazanderan furnishes a striking contrast to the waste and barren shores of southern Persia, where for many hundred miles there is not a stream to be met with deep enough to take a horse above the knee. Hence arises the fertility of Mazanderan. So mild and humid, indeed, is the climate of Mazanderan, that it permits the growth of the sugar cane, and the production of good sugar, and that in perfection four months earlier than in the West Indies. From the lack of art and care, however, this gift of nature is not turned to account by the inhabitants of that province.^[21]

Post-Islamic history

During the post-Islamic period the local dynasties fall into three classes: 1. local families of pre-Islamic origin, 2. the ʿAlid sayyid s, and 3. local families of secondary importance.^[20]

The Bawandids who claimed descent from Kawus provided three dynasties.^[20] The first dynasty (665–1007) was overthrown on the conquest of Tabaristan by the Ziyarid Kabus b. Wushmgir.^[20] The second dynasty reigned from 466/1073 to 606/1210 when Mazandaran was conquered by 'Ala al-Din Muhammad Khwarzamshah.^[20] The third ruled from 635/1237 to 750/1349 as vassals of the Mongols.^[20] The last representative of the Bawandids was killed by Afrasiyab Chulawi.^[20]

The Karinids claimed descent from Karin, brother of Zarmihr who was the pre-Islamic ruler under the Sassanids.^[20] Their last representative Mazyar was put to death in 224/839.^[20]

The Paduspanids claimed descent from the Dabyuids of Gilan.^[20] They came to the front about 40/660 and during the rule of the ʿAlids were their vassals. Later, they were vassals of the Buyids and Bawandids, who deposed them in 586/1190.^[20] The dynasty, restored in 606/1209-10, survived till the time of Timur; the branch descended from Kawus the son of Kayumarth reigned till 975/1567 and the other, that of Iskandar the son of Kayumarth, till 984/1574.^[20]

In the 9th-11th century AD, there were repetitively military raids undertaken by the Rus' between 864 and 1041 on the Caspian Sea shores of Iran, Azerbaijan, and Dagestan as part of the Caspian expeditions of the Rus'.^[22] Initially, the Rus' appeared in Serkland in the 9th century traveling as merchants along the Volga trade route, selling furs, honey, and slaves. The first small-scale raids took place in the late 9th and early 10th century. The Rus' undertook the first large-scale expedition in 913; having arrived on 500 ships, they pillaged the westernmost parts of Gorgan as well as Mazandaran and Gilan, taking slaves and goods.

In the Safavid era Mazandaran was settled by very large amounts of Georgians, Circassians, Armenians, and other Peoples of the Caucasus, whose descendants still live or linger across Mazandaran. Towns, villages and neighbourhoods in Mazandaran still bear the name "Gorji" (i.e., Georgian) in them, although most of the large amounts of Georgians, and Circassians are already assimilated into the mainstream Mazandaranis. The history of Georgian settlement is described by Iskandar Beg Munshi, the author of the 17th century Tarikh-e Alam-Ara-ye Abbasi, and both the Circassian and Georgian settlements by Pietro Della Valle, among other authors.^[23]

Geography and population

Geography

Mazandaran is located on the southern coast of the Caspian Sea. It is bordered clockwise by Golestan, Semnan and Tehran provinces.^[24] This province also borders Qazvin and Gilan to the west. Mazandaran province is geographically divided into two parts: the coastal plains, and the mountainous areas. The Alborz Mountain Range surrounds the coastal strip and plains of the Caspian Sea.

There is often snowfall in the Alborz regions, which run parallel to the Caspian Sea's southern coast, dividing the province into many isolated valleys. The province enjoys a moderate, subtropical climate with an average temperature of 25 °C in summer and about 8 °C in winter. Although snow may fall heavily in the mountains in winter, it rarely falls at sea level.

Ecoregions:

• Caspian Hyrcanian mixed forests;
• Elburz Range forest steppe.

	Caspian Sea	Caspian Sea	Caspian Sea
	Gilan Province Qazvin Province		Golestan Province
		Mazandaran Province
	Alborz Province	Tehran Province	Semnan Province

Climate

Given the climatic changes and varying rates of rainfall in different parts of Mazandaran province, this region has a variety of climates, including the mild and humid climate of Caspian shoreline and the moderate and cold climate of mountainous regions. The western and central plains of the province, up to the northern foothills of Alborz Mountain Range, experience the mild climate of the Caspian region. In the 1,500- to 3,000-meter altitudes, there is a moderate mountainous climate, with long, cold winters, and short, mild summers. In this region, snow covers parts of the province even up to the middle of the warm season. In fact, snow can be observed in this region even in the warmest months of the year, which lends a touch of beauty to this region.

Demographics

The population of the province has been steadily growing during the last 50 years. The following table shows the approximate province population, excluding the Golestan province, which has separated as an independent province in 1998.^{[citation needed]}

The population is overwhelmingly Mazandarani, with a minority of Azerbaijanis, Georgians, Armenians, Circassians, Turkmen and others.

In recent years the region has seen an influx of Iranians from other regions of Iran, many of them attracted by its nature and seaside.

Year	1956	1966	1976	1986	1996	2006	2011[2]
Approximate population	835,000	1,250,000	1,596,000	2,275,000	2,602,000	2,922,000	3,073,943

Transportation

Roads

Mazandaran is connected to the capital of Iran, Tehran, through three transit roads: Haraz road (Amol-Rudehen), Kandovan road (Chalus-Karaj), and Firoozkooh road (Qaem Shahr-Rudehen).

Airports

Dasht-e Naz Airport, serving the capital Sari, Noshahr Airport, and Ramsar Airport are the domestic airports that connect the province to the other parts of the country. There are some Hajj flights from Dasht-e Naz Airport as well.

Railway

Mazandaran is served by the North Railway Dept. of the Iranian Railways. The department connects the province to Tehran to the south and Gorgan to the east. The cities of Sari, Qaemshahr, and Pol Sefid are major stations of the department.

Culture

Mazandaran is a center for Iranian culture and has produced a number of famous poets. Similar scholars political and philosopher. wool, felting, felt hat and mat weaving industry Cultural Mazandaran is. Barf Chal, Lochu Wrestling, Palm and Tiregān (Damavand national day) The local event will be Which is held each year.^{[citation needed]}

The peoples of the two provinces are largely secular, and consequently women have had greater social freedom and independence than their Persian cousins.^[25]

Language

Mazanderani or Tabarian is a Northwestern Iranian language. Various Mazandarani dialects exist which are spoken in Mazandaran province and the neighbor province Golestan such as Mazanderani, and Gorgani and possibly Qadikolahi (Ghadikolahi) and Palani. Today, Mazandaranis also use Persian (Western Persian). The educated can communicate and read Persian well.^[26]

A dialect of Azeri is spoken in the town of Galoogah.^[27]

In literature

In the Persian epic, Shahnameh, Mazandaran is mentioned in two different sections. The first mention is implicit, when Fereydun sets its capital in a city called Tamishe near Amol:

بیاراست گیتی بسان بهشت.................... به جای گیا سرو گلبن بکشت

از آمل گذر سوی تمیشه کرد .............. نشست اندر آن نامور بیشه کرد

under the title "فریدون چو شد بر جهان کامگار", and when Manuchehr is returning to Fereydun's capital, Tamisheh in Mazandaran (known as Tabarestan), after his victory over Salm and Tur:^[28]

ز دريای گيلان چون ابر سياه.............. دمادم به ساری رسيد آن سپاه

چو آمد بنزدیک شاه آن سپاه.................. فریدون پذیره بیامد براه

In the second section, a region called Mazandaran is mentioned in the Kai Kavoos era; it is an area which is mostly inhabited by Div (demons). The legendary Iranian Shah Kaykavoos, as well as the Iranian hero Rostam, each take turn to go to Mazandaran in order to battle the demons.

A famous verse from Shahnameh is when Zal tells Kai Kavoos:

شنیدم یکی نو سخن بس گران ..........که شه دارد آهنگ مازندران

"I heard troubling news that the king is planning to go to Mazandaran"

However, this Mazandaran is not considered identical to the modern province of Mazandaran, and is instead a land to the west of Iran. The current province was simply considered a part of Tabaristan; the name Mazandaran is a later development, perhaps based upon local terminology.^[29]

In Gaston Leroux's 'The Phantom of the Opera,' one of the characters was formerly the daroga (chief of police) of Mazanderan.

Arash story of the Shahnameh: از آن خوانند آرش را کمانگیر ..........که از آمل بمرو انداخت یک تیر

Historical and natural tourist attractions

^{[citation needed]}

Transportation

Airport

• Dasht-e Naz Airport
• Noshahr Airport
• Ramsar Airport

Road

• Haraz Road
• Chaloos Road
• Tehran-Shomal Freeway

Railway

• Railway Mazandaran

Notable people

Notable people from and/or active in Mazandaran Province or its historical region include:

Artists

• Omar Tiberiades (died c. 815) − architect and astrologer.
• Khayr al-Nisa Begum − painter
• Mokarrameh Ghanbari − painter
• Towhidi Tabari − calligrapher

Musicians

Poets

Poets in the Persian and/or Mazandarani languages

Cinema artists

Scientists

Historians, philosophers and theologians

Politicians

Royalty

• Reza Shah Pahlavi − Shah of the Kingdom of Iran (December 1925−September 1941)
• Mohammad Reza Pahlavi − last Shah of Iran (September 1941−February 1979)

Sports people

Mazandaran today

Economy

Rice, grain, fruits, cotton, tea, tobacco, sugarcane, and silk are produced in the lowland strip along the Caspian shore. Oil wealth has stimulated industries in food processing, cement, textiles, cotton, and fishing (caviar).^{[citation needed]}

Colleges and universities

Main universities of Mazandaran

• University of Mazandaran, Babolsar
• Mazandaran University of Medical Sciences, Sari
• Babol Noshirvani University of Technology, Babol
• Babol University of Medical Sciences, Babol
• Sari Agricultural Sciences and Natural Resources University, Sari
• Shomal University, Amol

Gallery

• 

  Mazandaran Sea

• 

  Teki-e Taker

• 

  Larijan Kafer Keli

• 

  Geometric calligraphy at the Friday Mosque

• 

  Namarestagh

• 

  Velasht

• 

  Ramsar Palace

• 

  Imamzadeh Abbas

• 

  Abbas Abad Dam

• 

  Juybar Bridge

• 

  Chalus Bridge

• 

  Chalus Road

• 

  Mazandaran Nature

• 

  Alam Kuh

• 

  Lar National Park

• 

  Zangian Cave

See also

• Tapurian people Mazandarani people.
• Maziar
• Alborz (Elburz) mountain range topics

References

External links

• Official Mazandaran Governorship website
• ICCIM's page on Mazandaran
• Mazandaran Cultural Heritage Organization
• Mazandaran Tourism palaces
• Official website of Mazandaran TV
• Registration Mazandaran
• A Mazandarani folk-song sung by Shusha Guppy in the 1970s: Darling Dareyne

Mazandaran Province Capital Sari Counties and cities Abbasabad County Abbasabad Kelarabad Salman Shahr Amol County Amol Dabudasht Gazanak Rineh Babol County Babol Amirkola Galugah Gatab Khush Rudpey Marzikola Zargarmahalleh Babolsar County Babolsar Bahnemir Kalleh Bast Behshahr County Behshahr Khalil Shahr Rostamkola Chalus County Chalus Kelardasht Marzanabad Fereydunkenar County Fereydunkenar Galugah County Galugah Juybar County Juybar Kuhi Kheyl Mahmudabad County Mahmudabad Sorkhrud Miandorud County Surak Neka County Neka Nowshahr County Nowshahr Nur County Nur Baladeh Chamestan Izadshahr Royan Qaem Shahr County Qaem Shahr Ramsar County Ramsar Ketalem and Sadat Shahr Sari County Sari Farim Kiasar Savadkuh County Zirab Alasht Pol-e Sefid Shirgah Simorgh County Kiakola Tonekabon County Tonekabon Khorramabad Nashtarud Sights Mount Damavand Mir Bozorg Tomb Aab pari Alasht Babolsar Amol Davazdah Cheshmeh Badab-e Surt natural site Dasht-e Naz national Park Sari Larijan spa Ghermerez spa Imamzadeh Abbas Tower Resket Shahandasht Waterfall Sayyid Mir Heydar Tomb Jameh Mosque of Amol Agha Abbas Mosque Farah Abad Didbani Tower Babol Mollana Mosque Qa'em Shahr's Imamzadeh kati Sisangan national Park, Nowshahr Challdareh national Park, Tonekabon Veresk Bridge Imamzadeh Ghasem Mohammad Hassan Khan Qajar's Bridge Namakabrood's aerial tramway Javaherdeh Nima Yooshij's house in Yoush Khestpol Bridge in Qa'em Shahr Valasht lake, Kelardasht Saadatmahaleh, Sari Avidar lake Nowshahr Lar Dam Amol Kalakchal Deryok Kalbadi House Tamishan Noor Golden Park Amol Alam-Kuh Palaeolithic caves of Kamarband’, and Hotu , Sari Malek Bahman Castle Galehgardan, Tonekabon Palace of Ramsar Safavid gardens of Behshahr Babol museum Khoshedaran Museum of natural history, Fereydoon Kenar Kandelus museum,near Chaloos Sari's clock square Rahband Palace of Behshahr Se Sangan Gol-e-Zard Cave Danial Cave Heshtel Tower Gabri Tonekabon Alimastan Village Moalagh Bridge Ramsar's old hotel Shekleh Shah populated places List of cities, towns and villages in Mazandaran Province

Provinces of Iran Alborz Ardabil Bushehr Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari East Azerbaijan Isfahan Fars Gilan Golestan Hamadan Hormozgan Ilam Kerman Kermanshah Khuzestan Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad Kurdistan Lorestan Markazi Mazandaran North Khorasan Qazvin Qom Razavi Khorasan Semnan Sistan and Baluchestan South Khorasan Tehran West Azerbaijan Yazd Zanjan